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Old Thursday 11th March 2010, 05:17 PM
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You're right Jim, tightly packed in an inaccessible channel above the heater. However, I'm (possibly) going to be smart in that I don't believe there is any damage to other cables but IF I try to remove the 'melty' one, I may cause some damage. Instead, I will terminate both ends and look for an alternative route for my two new cables. The bonus in this is that, if I still have a heat problem, it will be confined to the new route and not past the old cables.

I just need to find a suitable route...........
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Old Thursday 11th March 2010, 05:55 PM
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You can't deviate from the traditional route!! (you have to be an orangeman from N Ireland to understand that one)
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Old Thursday 11th March 2010, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobamy View Post
You can't deviate from the traditional route!! (you have to be an orangeman from N Ireland to understand that one)
Oh no you don't
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Old Thursday 11th March 2010, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LYT4X View Post

I discovered that, instead of the 5-socket plastic connector fitting into the rear of the ignition barrel, the car has been (badly) fitted with an immobiliser and this has been achieved by breaking the plastic to leave only three connectors on it with two separate (loose) spade connectors with the immobiliser between them. I'm beginning to wonder if I have perhaps transposed these two spade connector cables.
I'd start by replacing this component.
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Old Friday 12th March 2010, 06:16 PM
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Try Bridging the fuel pump relay with another additional bridge or make one(reason;no clicking or spark when ignition switch is operating) as this plays a role in the major electrics(coil, distributor etc) then establish if you any have power at the coil distributor/ ISV etc.
Are you totally 100% sure the fuel pump is operating? Pump running and no spark is strange.

I'd presume that the cables/ starter bridge area have suffered from excessive and continous cranking of the engine when it has been unwilling to start and this has contributed to the damage to the cables/relays? on this circuit - Maybe a lesson to be learned here.

Soren R posted a schematic a while ago which has a diagram of the basic circuit illustrating the relationship of the major components of the K-Jet ignition/fuel circuit.It may help.
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Old Sunday 14th March 2010, 09:03 PM
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Things have now gone full circle - but in the other direction!!!

I've replaced the ignition barrel connector, run new cables from there to the fuse box, kicked the immobiliser out of the cockpit, replaced the melted (brown) connector at the underside of the fuse box and....... hey presto!

I effectively had the car back to how I got it, but without a damned immobiliser and melted cables to the fuse box. Oh! I also have Patrizia talking to me now too which seemed like a bit of a 'boost' but I'm already fed up of her droaning on about brake fluid.........

The next issue was a dashboard which was givng spurious results (as it was when I got the car).......

Sitting idling at rest, sometimes it would say 5mph, sometimes 0mph. When it idled it sometimes said 3500rpm, then, when it was revved there was little difference. Sometimes there was 3 gallons in the tank, sometimes it was empty. The clock didn't make sense and wouldn't set properly either. Things just weren't right.

So, I went to my stash of parts taken from my project car and pluged-in the dash. Wow! Everything lit-up perfectly and the speed/revs/fuel/clock all functioning as they should. However........ the ABS lght wasn't comming on and the handbrake lamp had disappeared too.

Then the real shock! Same part numbers on the two dashes,but they are quite different. The '84 dash doesn't have a handbrake lamp but has a seat heater indication in its place. The '85 dash doesn't have a seat-heater indication, but the car does have (working) seat heaters! The green colour of the dash is different too.

I put the original dash back in place having confirmed that the dash itself must have a fault and soon, the dash started to flicker then it extinguished all together.

So, it's full circle now but ar$e about face. The ignition warning lamps are all working and I have a car which starts and runs, but I have no green display at all.
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Old Sunday 14th March 2010, 09:26 PM
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Send the dash to Pete knight and get him to check it 84-85 dash's are different infact there are at least 3 colors of them (5 maybe more correct)................and different configs as well
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Old Sunday 14th March 2010, 09:35 PM
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There are two colours of green dash, 84my is different to others
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Old Sunday 14th March 2010, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LYT4X View Post
The '84 dash doesn't have a handbrake lamp but has a seat heater indication in its place.
Thats the very early dash. The display will be more of a bluey-green rather than the green of the later dash. The later dashes are "greener" as there is a green filter across the VFD modules in the dash.
The early dash uses an oddity cpu, which is very hard to get if it goes faulty.

Is it just me, or is there a rash of dash failures / problems at the moment?
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Old Sunday 14th March 2010, 09:40 PM
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Yes, I noticed the green film on the '85 dash. I think the earlier green/blue is more appealing.

Question is, can I fit the earlier dash with a bit of fettling at the connector? I noticed one of your past posts says something about the pin-outs change between the '84/'85 dashes.
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